Counter Intelligence: Where to Eat in the Real Los Angeles
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Book Overview
"Gold changed American food writing."--Time
The only food critic to win the Pulitzer Prize for criticism, Jonathan Gold pioneered a humanist's approach to reviewing restaurants: COUNTER INTELLIGENCE collects over 200 of his legendary reviews, which were as much about Los Angeles' neighborhoods and people as about what you were going to eat. He revealed the hidden kitchens where Los Angeles' immigrant communities fed their own, including the best of cuisine from Argentina, Armenia, Brazil, Burma, Canton, Colombia, Cuba, Guatemala, India, Indonesia, Iran, Italy, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Nicaragua, Pakistan, Peru, Thailand, Vietnam and more. Not to mention the indigenous dishes of L.A. car culture: the perfectly-prepared hamburger and the quintessential hot dog. Originally published in 2000, COUNTER INTELLIGENCE remains an entry point to the food of the country's most diverse culinary landscape; though some of the restaurants it lists have vanished as the twenty-first century has worn on (and its prices remain a point of nostalgia), "you could read it like a novel and be very satisfied (Ruth Reichl)".Format:Paperback
Language:English
ISBN:B0044KN0WM
ISBN13:9780312267230
Release Date:December 2000
Publisher:L.A. Weekly Books
Length:432 Pages
Weight:1.04 lbs.
Dimensions:0.9" x 6.1" x 9.2"
Related Subjects
Dining Education & Reference Food, Lodging & Transportation Pacific Reference Travel WestCustomer Reviews
5 ratings
Indispensable as Thomas Map
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 22 years ago
Few maps necessary though, since 90% of the restaurants are within a couple miles of each other (Alhambra/San Gabriel/Moneterey Park). Even though many of these reviews were written long ago, I've found that most of the restaurants are still around. Literally a lifetime's worth of discoveries await... . What you learn reading this book will help you in exploring new places as well.
The Walt Whitman of restaraunt reviews
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 23 years ago
Gold, who now writes about the New York restaraunt scene for Gourmet magazine, is a wordsmith beyond compare. Before I found this book (thank the lord I did!)I would repeatedly read and re-read his reviews in back issues of LA Weekly- I hungered for his words about food almost as much as I did for food itself! Gold is a true poet of food- in the same vein as MFK Fisher or Brillat-Savarin, and that is good company. He takes as his subject (for the most part)the obscure ethnic cuisines and restaraunts of L.A., from Afgahn to Uzbeki. He takes his food seriously, only in this book could you find recommendations for thai frog legs, corndogs and tongue tacos. For restaraunt reviews that read like great literature, and that will absolutely make your mouth water with uncannily poetic descriptions and wonderful, mature prose- this is what you are looking for.
My favorite prose writer
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 24 years ago
Jonathan Gold is my favorite prose writer. I have read his reviews in the LA Weekly out loud, laughing hysterically, for years. He introduced me to Zankou Chicken and their amazing garlic sauce. This book replaces the file folder full of years of LA Weekly clippings that ride around with me in the car as I eat my way across L.A. I've also bought copies for my house, my office, and my foodie friends. I'm looking forward to Counter Intelligence II, which I hope will have Quanjude Peking Duck in it. Yes, L.A. has its own Peking duck restaurant, which I learned about through Jonathan Gold.
Food Writing at its Best
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 24 years ago
Los Angeles is a city of cities, a conglomeration of every possible ethnic group, and Gold's tight, evocative prose captures every bit of food on a big plate. Years of eating odd food at small restaurants in the city's forgotten corners pay off in a smorgasbord of beautifully written capsule review of L.A.'s wide variety of eating places. Highly recommended for those who enjoy good food and good writing, even if you aren't an Angeleno. This book deserves to join every "foodie" shelf.
A great culinary and cultural tour!
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 24 years ago
To paraphrase the author, Angelenos are uniquely afflicted with people who jet in here and try and explain the city and its contents (and discontents) from the safety of their own presuppositions. Jonathan Gold takes you through LA the only way that makes sense: by hop-scotching about the city, trying every dish in every corner and reporting passionately and wittily about what he finds. Gold began his quest many years ago by setting himself to eat his way along Pico Boulevard (a major east-west street that cuts through all sorts of cultures and cuisines), and in this book he shares all that and more.This encyclopedia of great (and mostly cheap) eats is full of great advice, great finds, and hunger-inducing prose. If only the indexing were a little more complete, this would be The Perfect Los Angeles Restaurant Guide. As it is, the only way to read it is in a straight line, from start to finish...which is actually terrific! Gold is a tremendously entertaining and nimble writer. I have this final compliment to offer: OK, Jonathan, I WILL try BIRRIA! Thanks for a terrific book!JJF
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